Tiropita (Greek Cheese Pie)

Instructions

1. Take the phyllo out of the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature in its unopened wrapper for about 30 minutes; unwrapping cold phyllo straight from the fridge makes the sheets crack and tear.
2. While the phyllo rests, make the filling: in a large bowl, crumble the feta finely with a fork, then mash in the ricotta or anthotyro until the mixture is fairly smooth with just a little texture left.
3. Stir in the heavy cream, beaten eggs, chopped mint or dill, and pepper, mixing until evenly combined. Taste a tiny bit and add salt only if it needs it — most feta brings plenty on its own.
4. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and brush a 9x13 inch (23x33 cm) baking pan generously with melted butter, including the sides.
5. Unroll the phyllo and lay the stack flat. Keep it covered with a sheet of plastic wrap topped with a slightly damp kitchen towel the entire time you're not actively handling a sheet — phyllo dries and crumbles within minutes of open air.
6. Lay one phyllo sheet in the pan, letting the edges climb up the sides or overhang as needed, and brush it lightly but fully with melted butter, right out to the corners. Repeat with 7 more sheets, buttering each one before adding the next, to build the bottom crust.
7. Spread the cheese filling evenly over the buttered phyllo base, pushing it gently into the corners with a spatula.
8. Fold any overhanging phyllo edges in over the filling, then begin layering the top crust: add a sheet, brush with butter, and repeat with the remaining 7 or so sheets, buttering each one. Tuck or trim the top edges neatly, or scrunch the last sheet loosely for a rustic, ruffled top.
9. Brush the top layer generously with the remaining butter, then use a sharp knife to score the pie into squares or diamonds, cutting only through the top few layers of phyllo — this keeps the pie from shattering unevenly when it's cut for serving later.
10. Sprinkle the top with sesame seeds if using, then flick the tablespoon of water evenly over the surface with your fingertips; this small step helps the phyllo blister and curl attractively as it bakes instead of baking flat.
11. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the top is deeply golden and the bottom crust sounds crisp when tapped. If the top browns before the base is done, loosely tent it with foil and continue baking.
12. Let the tiropita rest in the pan for at least 15 minutes before cutting all the way through along the scored lines — this resting time lets the filling set so the pieces hold together instead of oozing.
13. Serve warm or at room temperature, on its own or alongside coffee, olives, and fresh fruit.