Saganaki (Greek Fried Cheese)

Instructions

1. Pat the cheese slabs dry, then check that each piece is roughly ½ inch (1.5 cm) thick; cheese cut too thin will melt through before the outside browns, while cheese cut too thick will stay cold in the center.
2. Dip each slab briefly in cold water so the surface is evenly damp, then let any excess drip off for a few seconds.
3. Spread the flour (or semolina) on a plate and season lightly with black pepper. Press each damp slab into the coating, turning to cover all sides, and pat off any loose excess so you are left with a thin, even layer.
4. Set the coated cheese aside on a clean plate for a minute or two; this lets the coating set slightly so it clings to the cheese instead of falling off in the pan.
5. Heat the olive oil in a small, heavy skillet or traditional two-handled saganaki pan over medium heat until it shimmers but is not smoking. A shallow layer of oil is all you need; this is a pan-sear, not a deep fry.
6. Lay the cheese in the hot oil carefully, away from your body, since the surface will spatter briefly as the water in the coating hits the oil.
7. Fry undisturbed for about 1 to 2 minutes, until the underside is deep golden brown. Resist the urge to move it too soon, or the coating will tear and the cheese may stick.
8. Slide a thin spatula fully underneath the slab and flip it in one confident motion, then fry the second side for another 1 to 2 minutes until equally golden. Lower the heat slightly if the crust is coloring faster than the center is softening.
9. If you want the tableside flambé effect, pull the pan off the heat completely for about thirty seconds to let it cool slightly, then pour in the warmed brandy, Metaxa, or ouzo and carefully touch a long lighter to the edge of the pan, standing back as the flames rise. Let the flames die down on their own before serving; never pour alcohol into a pan that is still directly over an open flame, and keep loose sleeves, overhead cabinets, and bystanders well clear.
10. Transfer the saganaki straight to a warm plate and squeeze fresh lemon juice over the top immediately; the acidity cuts through the richness and the sizzle is part of the presentation.
11. Scatter with a little extra black pepper and fresh oregano if using, and serve at once with crusty bread to mop up the pan juices.
12. Eat saganaki as soon as it reaches the table. Like most fried cheese, it firms up and turns rubbery within minutes of cooling, so it is not a dish that waits well.