Kolokithokeftedes (Greek Zucchini Fritters)

Instructions

1. Trim the ends off the zucchini and grate them on the large holes of a box grater or in a food processor fitted with a grating disc.
2. Transfer the grated zucchini to a colander set over a bowl or the sink, sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons salt, and toss well with your hands so the salt is evenly distributed.
3. Let the salted zucchini drain for 20 to 30 minutes. This is the single most important step in the whole recipe: the salt pulls water out of the vegetable by osmosis, and skipping or rushing this stage is the main reason fritters turn soggy, greasy, or fall apart in the pan.
4. After draining, take handfuls of the zucchini and squeeze firmly over the sink to wring out as much liquid as possible, or wrap it in a clean kitchen towel or cheesecloth and twist tightly. Keep squeezing until barely any water drips out and the zucchini feels noticeably dry and compact; this may take a couple of rounds.
5. Taste a small pinch of the squeezed zucchini before adding more salt elsewhere in the recipe, since some seasoning was already lost with the draining, and both the feta and the mixture will still need salt.
6. In a large bowl, combine the well-drained zucchini with the crumbled feta, beaten eggs, dill, mint, scallions, garlic, lemon zest, pepper, and oregano if using. Stir gently until evenly combined.
7. Sprinkle in the flour a little at a time, folding it in until the mixture just holds together when you press a spoonful into a ball. It should be thick and scoopable, not runny; if it still looks wet, add another tablespoon or two of flour rather than skipping ahead.
8. Cover the bowl and rest the mixture in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes. This lets the flour absorb any remaining moisture and firms up the batter so the fritters hold their shape in the hot oil.
9. Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers but is not smoking. Test with a small spoonful of batter; it should sizzle gently right away.
10. Working in batches so the pan isn't crowded, drop rounded tablespoons of the mixture into the oil and flatten each gently into a disc about ½ inch thick using the back of the spoon.
11. Fry for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until deeply golden and crisp at the edges, adjusting the heat as needed so the outside doesn't brown before the inside cooks through. Turn once with a slotted spatula.
12. Lift the fritters out onto a plate lined with paper towels to drain briefly, then serve warm or at room temperature with lemon wedges and plenty of tzatziki for dipping.