Bougatsa (Thessaloniki Custard Pastry)

Instructions

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the semolina, sugar, and salt. Slowly whisk in the milk until no lumps remain, then set the pan over medium heat.
2. Cook the mixture, whisking constantly, for about 8 to 10 minutes, until it thickens into a thick, pudding-like custard that coats the back of a spoon. Keep the heat moderate and keep whisking the whole time, or the semolina will scorch on the bottom of the pan.
3. In a separate bowl, ladle about a cup of the hot custard into the beaten eggs while whisking constantly. This tempers the eggs so they warm gradually and won't scramble when they meet the rest of the hot custard.
4. Pour the tempered egg mixture back into the saucepan and whisk over low heat for another minute or two, until fully incorporated, smooth, and glossy. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and vanilla extract.
5. Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the custard to stop a skin from forming, then let it cool to room temperature. Warm custard will make the delicate phyllo soggy and hard to work with, so don't rush this step.
6. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Keep the phyllo sheets stacked under a slightly damp kitchen towel while you work, since exposed sheets dry out and crack within minutes.
7. Lay one sheet of phyllo on your work surface and brush lightly with melted butter. Repeat with several more sheets, brushing butter between each layer, until you have a stack of about five or six buttered sheets.
8. Spoon the cooled custard down the center of the phyllo stack in a long log, leaving a few inches of bare phyllo along the sides and ends so you have room to fold.
9. Fold the short ends of the phyllo over the custard, then fold the long sides on top, brushing lightly with butter as you go, to seal the filling into a neat rectangular parcel. For a family-size tray instead of individual parcels, layer the buttered phyllo sheets in a baking pan, pour in the custard, and top with more buttered sheets.
10. Carefully flip the parcel seam-side down onto the prepared baking sheet and brush the top generously with the remaining melted butter. If baking a full tray, score the top layer of phyllo into portions with a sharp knife before it goes in the oven.
11. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the phyllo is deeply golden and audibly crisp when tapped.
12. Remove from the oven and let the bougatsa rest for 15 to 20 minutes so the custard fully sets. Cutting it too soon will make the filling run.
13. Dust generously with powdered sugar and a light shower of ground cinnamon just before serving, and enjoy while it's still warm.